For this project I purchased a new, "B" stock a/d/s/ 630 X amplifier from a dealer on eBay for $160. This is a 6 x 40 watt amplifier with integrated active crossover that can be configured for 4 x 60 + 1 x 120 watt operation, which seemed very appropriate for the allroad.
The Bose amplifier is relatively small, and is attached to the subwoofer behind the right rear wheel. The a/d/s/ amplifier is considerably larger, and will not fit in the same space.
I investigated a number of possible spaces for this amplifier, and decided that it could fit behind the right wheel well, in the space occupied by the tool kit and 6-disc changer.
I removed the metal bracket that supports these items, and freed the disc changer interface cable.
To proceed further, it became necessary to remove most of the trim in the rear area. This can be accomplished with the following steps:
I then cut 2 pieces of 3/4' plywood, and epoxied them to the body.
I cut another piece of 3/4' plywood to the exact footprint of the a/d/s/ amplifier. I painted this black, and attached it to the other pieces with drywall screws, being sure not to puncture the body panel!
The next steps involved providing power to the amplifier location. I thought that this was going to be an extremely difficult and time-consuming process, but it went very quickly.
I purchased a Monster Cable 8 gauge amplifier installation kit from a local Tweeter for $40, and soldered and heat-shrunk the end of the power lead and the fuse holder. I discovered an unused hole and plug in the firewall in the location shown below. I removed the plug, cut a small hole in it, and heat-shrunk the power lead to it. I then fed the power cable through, reinstalled the plug, and connected the terminal to the battery with the fuse removed.
I ran the power lead from the firewall to the left side of the car, behind the driver's kick panel, and under the door threshold.
I ran the lead behind the pillar trim, under the passenger door threshold, behind the passenger seat upholstery, and through to the amplifier location. I was able to use a number of fasteners that were anchoring an existing wiring harness.
I soldered and heat-shrunk a ring to the negative power lead, and attached it to a bolt that mounted the air tank to the body. I also attached the amplifier power input connector to both power leads, being sure to observe proper polarity.